40,000 human skulls. They haunt me.

Several weeks ago, I was in Europe, celebrating 25 years of marriage and visiting the towns along the Danube River. It was a wonderful trip—yet what I can’t get out of my mind is the sight of 40,000 neatly stacked human skulls, in the Sedlac Ossuary in Kutna Hora, a small town in the Czech Republic.

The image sometimes comes back to me several times a day. It’s not warm and fuzzy; definitely not Christmas-carol stuff. And it’s not that oh-so-mild Advent waiting that everyone talks about, the kind where you listen and light candles and feel smug because the rest of the world is shopping and you are praying.