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In the West Bank: The drama of the drive home

The drive from Afula in Israel south to Jalame in the West Bank takes only minutes, but these two towns are worlds apart. Afula is a relatively affluent suburb with ATMs, tree-lined streets and pleasant neighborhoods. Jalame is a town of degrading poverty, which is evident in the potholed roads (when they’re paved at all), storefront vegetable stands and shells of buildings—memorials to the wars that never end.