When I was in Croatia this past May I went on a hunt for a sausage. Not just for any kind of sausage, mind you, but for kulen, a specialty from a region of Northeast Croatia called Slavonia. If kulen could think and feel, it would be insulted by being counted among mere sausages. You canâ€™t buy it in any store, of course. To get it youâ€™ve got to have friends in very high placesâ€”in backwater villages of Slavonia where people raise their own pigs and prepare kulen according to recipes passed on in families for generations.