When I was in Croatia this past May I went on a hunt for a sausage. Not just for any kind of sausage, mind you, but for kulen, a specialty from a region of Northeast Croatia called Slavonia. If kulen could think and feel, it would be insulted by being counted among mere sausages. You can’t buy it in any store, of course. To get it you’ve got to have friends in very high places—in backwater villages of Slavonia where people raise their own pigs and prepare kulen according to recipes passed on in families for generations.